Showing posts with label Parma. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Parma. Show all posts

Monday, July 5, 2010

Day Thirteen: Saturday, July 3 Parma to Zibello

Day Thirteen: Saturday July 3
Saturday July 3, 2010 Parma to Zibello
We had a nice relaxing morning although I woke up pretty early and uploaded all my photos from yesterday. No walk today and we had breakfast between 9 and 9:30.




Bruni and Simona

Had a great time with Bruno and Simona. We asked her to give us her recipe for Torta Fritta so there will definitely some work to determine which recipe is better. We also got a recipe from Alexandra yesterday. Borrowed a mallet from Bruno and was able to pound out the dented corner of Christine’s suitcase.
View from our room




Bruno gave us directions into Parma and some suggestions about what to see there. He also had some ideas for the Zibello area. Apparently you can rent bikes and tour prescribed routes and also some famous folks like Verdi live nearby. Should be fun.

Walk through Parma Centro
Not sure when we left but we followed Gary and Peggy into Parma and were parked in the underground parseggio well before noon.


In Parma we looked for the farmer’s market but did not find it right away. We walked past the Baptistery, but you have to pay to get in there.


The first sight we went into was the cathedral where we listened to an audio tour in English for one Euro and found there were several Carreggio’s there. Up front for another Euro you could have three different frescoes by Carreggio’s lit up one at a time. Very interesting actually.










We went into another church that had another Carravagio then wandered and found the Garibaldi statue. Gary liked it because he also had the initials GG. As we were wandering back to the car and sweating to death–it had to be in the 90s with 85-90% humidity–we did find the market but it turned out to be mostly cheap clothing stuff.








Onward to Zibello and La Bucca
We made it back to the car and began heading toward Zibello with Gary leading the way. We did not have a great map but by using the bracketing technique, it wasn’t too long before we found a sign pointing to Zibello. I think we were here not too long after 1:15.
Still wondering exactly what kind of a place this was going to be we found that it even had a blue directional sign and when we got there all the parking spaces across the road were full.



We were blown away with how great the place is. We had booked the blue and green rooms which are exactly the same except one is on the ground floor and the other is on the first floor. Apparently there is also a suite, the red room. We were greeted by Lucca who showed us the rooms. The only downside is that there is no internet. Maybe no internet in the entire town.

Pizza and Verdi in Bussetto
Peggy decided she wanted pizza and we agreed so Lucca told us we would have to drive to Bussetto several kilometers away. We found it in the main piazza at the Pizzaria Teatro near the main theatre and the statue of Verdi. It was delicious wood fired pizza, a great lunch.





Naps and World Cup Action
Once back at the place a little after three, we decided we all needed naps and we slept until a little after four. It was definitely a delicious sleep. Christine and I watched the first half of the quarterfinal game between Germany and Argentina and then Gary came down and sat on our chaise and we watched the second half. Germany dominated in every way and won 4-0. Argentina was not that bad really, Germany was just that good.

Bicycle Information and Planning
Gary and I decided to speak with Lucca about some of the details of what was happening in the area and this is when we found out that there may be no wi-fi anywhere near by. We did find out that the place to rent bikes is very close and we walked over there in the heat to check it out. What a miracle. To think that the bikes are so close and there are so many great places to ride nearby. Amazing. We found out that the bikes cost ten Euros per day. 15 Euro for two days. But certainly we have to get up early and ride in the morning because it will definitely be too hot by the afternoon.

Hanging Out and Dinner One at La Bucca
Gary and Peggy came down to our room and we watched the opening of the Tour de France in Rotterdam with a bottle of our Montalcino wine. We headed across the street to La Bucca at about 8:30.









We ate outside but it still was pretty hot and there were flies and even mosquitos. The food was excellent. We shared a plate of Culatello for an appetizer. Then we each had our own pasta. Gary had his with fresh porcinis, I had a button ravioii-like thing in a red sauce. Christine had a cylindrical crepe thing and Peggy had the pasta with Cullatello. The best part of the meal may have been the ice cream with the frutta del bosco.
After dinner we planned to tome back to the room and watch the second half of the Spain v. Paraguay World Cup quarter final, but of course, RAI 1 was not covering it. Apparently they only can cover one game per day. They wouldn’t want to deny the Italian people the right to watch badly dubbed American TV shows

Friday, July 2, 2010

Day Twelve: Friday, July 2 Parma - Reggio Emilia

Day Twelve: Friday, July 2 Perfect Day in Parma and Reggio-Emilia
Happy 33rd Anniversary Gary and Peggy


Woke up at 6:30 and worked a bit. Sitting in a quiet bathroom in the dark with a computer on your lap is certainly an interesting approach.

County Walk with Gary
Gary and I went for a great walk at 8. He was going to whimp out, but I managed to get him up. Took about 50 minutes to make the full loop. Probably was close to three miles I would guess. Gorgeous terrain with a pretty big hill to climb.














Sumptuous Country Breakfast and Concabaia
For breakfast all four coupls/families staying here gathered around the huge farmhouse table and enjoying an amazing array of foods. Freash meets, cheeses, orange juice, coffee, yogurt, bread, even fresh ricotta.



The long, thin slices are one year old parmigiano.







Parmigiano Reggiano Production
Bruno took us right across the street from the farm to see where his milk is made into parmigiano reggiano cheese. The cheese maker in action hand crafting the cheese. Each cauldrom makes two wheels. As the cheese began to curd up we got to taste some of it. I think this is the same thing as squeeky cheese.







If I remember correctly each wheel sells for about $500.






We even go to go into the cheese vault. To see where all the precious cheese is stored.






The fire stamp of approval means it is real Parmigiano Reggiano.


In front of the cheese vault.



Heading out for the next food tour.


Prosciutto de Parma Production at La Perla with Silvia
Our next stop was several towns away up on a mountian side to La Perla to see how they make Proscuitto de Parma. This one cost 25 Euro eac
h and included a light lunch. Silvia was our tour guide and Peggy figured that she was about 19. Turns out she is the only child of the owner. Apparently she also runs a bed and breakfast nearby. We later found out her favorite band is Slipknot. Go figure.










Gary scored a free Prosciutto de Parma hat from Silvia.





The light lunch
. Notice hor the cheese is crumbled. Not sliced




The prosciutto with out the bones







Some Castello Somewhere
Christine just drove right up into the castle. Maybe she was supposed to park down below.





Filling up isn't easy as it looks. We were on our way to the Aceto balsamico tour.



Medici Ermete Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale Production
Bruno had also aarranged a tour in Reggio-Emi
lia to see how aceto balsamico is made in the traditional way. it is nothing like balsamic vinegar. Our wonderful guide was


















Il Palio on Television
Can you believe it. We actually watched Il Palio on television before we headed out to dinner.
It was a crazy start with one rider refusing to bring his horse to the starting line. They would all be lined up at the starting rope which is dropped when they all get there. Since he wa snot there, they would all have to circle out of the starting area and then start all over. The one guy finally snuck up to the line trying to get a jump on all the riders and then they were all off. it didn't work for him and he did not win. The race was actually quite amazing. One rider fell off and every thing.Some day Peggy and I will be there live. We know that Gary and Christine will not stand there that long.



The winning contrada


33rd Anniversary Celebration with Gary and Peggy at Vecchio Mulino
Once again we are delighted to find ourselves celebrating Gary and Peggy's anniversary with them in Italy. The restaurant was called Vecchio Mulino and was in an old restored mill with a rushing mill race and all. It was owned by an Italian and his Polish wife.